Kathmandu Gateway to Himalayas

The road to Kathmandu was gorgeous, but switching vehicles seems to be the way to go between here and India. We were brought by jeep to Thamel to the Hotel Tradition (although we stayed across the street by my choice). Young Nepalese snowboarding types working the counter or scattered across lobby furniture like cord wood. Revived upon arrival, we head to the bar/eating area on the top floor. It views the mountains and has a kindly young man attending to us (Bhourna). We soon nip out to find a near ATM in the winding, dark alleyways of the city. Tourist shops that suit my fancy...Asian clothing, wall hangings, jewelry....yet only to window shop this trip for the most part. We pop into Rumdoodles to spy the large paper feet on all of the walls signed by the many climbers that start their treks in this city. Wishing to myself that we would have eaten here and foregone the steaks. This place has such character!

We all meet at the KToo Steak House so everyone can be 'treated' to steak. I opt for dreadful chimichangas and am amazed by how this is such a popular place as Barbara Streisand serenades us loudly in the background. Oh well....it IS Kathmandu after all...who cares? Many head to the motel top bar after, I find I am just wiped and head to bed. Someone down the hall deaf or nearly by the volume of the TV blaring. Thank God for earplugs.

After a good sleep and lie in until 8, we meet up with Julia, Tim and John to have breakfast down the way in a lovely Garden Cafe (muesli and milk curd..heaven). We walk a mile or 2 to Durbar Square. Passing many cars, cycles, wanderers...no begging, no dodging salesmen. The architecture staggering and captivating. We just take our time wandering about, looking at the buildings, people and artistry. We then catch cab to Bodnath Stupa. The largest Buddhist stupa in the city. It is glorious and I am enthralled. It is in a circular plot (as are all to enable the devoted to walk around the stupa in clockwise direction in prayer). The surrounding area laden with shops selling all of their wares and collectables. We wander about and a young Monk 'grabs' us and gives his 'shpeal'. Lovely young man or middle aged..hard to say. He blesses the white scarves, talks our ears off and poses for pictures all for a cheap $10. He is funding a trip to see family. We hand the money to his 'assistant' (monks are forbidden to handle money) and make our way to a nice quiet rooftop restaurant (the Temple Cafe) to meet Tim and Jules for tea. Outdoor seating with a view of the Stupa...ah...the life. They are chatting with Marge, a kind Dutch woman here to study meditation only. I find that I am a bit jealous. How I wish I could stay!

We finally make our way again by taxi to the Patan Durbar Square. The architecture glorious! Ancient and captivating. It doesn't seem so crowded here. We pass by another couple from our tour group and chat a bit. After a lengthy walk about, we head back to the hotel and get ready for supper. It is a lovely night and the city bustling. Our usual 5 meet and they begrudgingly agree to go for an Italian meal at La Dolce Vita. The food excellent and the small bottle of vodka Matt carries along adds to the conversation. A bit of shopping and taking in the madness of the typical night in this trendy city, and we are heading back to the hotel. We see Tamar on the way and exchange goodbyes. I will miss her. She was an amazing guide and good person. She will soon leave Dragoman and start her studies as a paramedic. I'm sure Dragoman will miss her greatly.

Most of us meet in the rooftop bar and have idle chat. Few of us slipping out to retire for the night. Many are to continue on beyond Kathmandu or elsewhere. I feel quite sad for us it is over...our trip cut short.

Our morning takes us to the airport. Our bags are checked 4 times before we board the small plane. It seems to take forever and I can still smell a faint whiff of mothballs....they are in every sink in Nepal and I loathe the smell. When something overwhelms the incense, which burns at every turn, it must be much. We finally arrive back at Delhi and the familiar smell of city stench fills the air. I don't realize how much I will miss it's familiarity. How can we be leaving after what seems so soon? It is just all so sad and the trip home is all that much more difficult. Telling myself the whole time that I have been so fortunate to have been here and have done what so few will ever do. I am so blessed.