We landed at Indira Gandhi International Airport at Delhi, early October 30th. We exited the plane and were shuffled to a small make-shift booth with 2 men with surgical masks. We presented them with forms they provided on the plane regarding Swine Flu. We had heard that if we even presented with slight symptoms or fever, we would be in quarantine. They had heat sensor cameras at customs entrance. Luckily, we weren't in the red. I was happy to get through customs without any problem. There were 'military' police throughout the place, I was a bit apprehensive. No need, they didn't seem bothered about much of anything.
To the desk to exchange dollars to rupees and off we go...(it was roughly 70 to the pound at that time or about 45 to a dollar) We step out into the main corridor and they are lined up on each side...cabbies. Some are holding signs, some offering lifts. Thank goodness ours was booked ahead. A young wisp of a man collects our bags when we see the sign and acknowledge him. A man of few words. The long corridor to exit seems to go on forever...typical airport, with the exception of beggars every so often. Young children with men at times, maimed. Very difficult to see and not engage. We know that children are frequently intentionally maimed so parents or those who abducted them can get more money. My stomach turns to think of it and combined with the sudden heat, I feel sick. We come out of the building in time and I feel I can breathe again. Nearly. The air is full of dust and it instantly sticks in my throat and eyes. It's everywhere. Most of the passerbys are men and they stare openly. Something we would have to adjust to quickly in every place we visit.
The drive from the airport seems to take hours. I am too tired and fascinated to become completely engaged in the driving. Thankfully. The roads are sparce and seem to be under some sort of construction. The men all in long sleeves and trousers. Many barefoot. The traffic is beyond reason. Cars of all sizes, partial semi-trucks decorative and adorned. Motorcycles, many with 3 and 4 passengers....tiny children on the front without helmets, women side-saddle with saris being worn. Bicycles, oxen carts, rickshaws, Tuk-Tuk's (small 3 wheeled taxis...sometimes with up to 12 people). All of these vehicles moving in and out in a type of orchestrated ramble. It works somehow. He races on...of course, there is no air conditioning...(not that I care for it...) but the horns work!! EVERYONE uses theirs...it's like it's own language. The horns never stop...day or night...and they're all driving 'hell bent for election' like granny would have said. Even with the cows, dogs, goats and people mixed in. I even see an elaborately dressed man on a fancy white horse. Most all of what I have seen looks like a warzone...trashed and dilapidated. Sad, but incredibly fascinating and exotic. Around one of last bends before we reach the hotel, I see a massive Hanuman statue(a Hindu monkey god)facing out proudly...it's an incredible site.
The motel is in a dirty corner of the city and the minute we step out, we are consumed by crowd and dust. It really is like a war zone. The inside not so bad, comfortable, a bit of Indian kitsch. I find the bed in our room and just crash...construction workers pounding above my head it seems..(as they did for most of the night we found). Earplugs would be my friends the entire trip.
We meet on the balcony to chat at 6 pm and discuss the itinerary. We have 2 guides: Nik (an English lad) and Tamar (Swiss-German lady). Nice, earthy duo. There are folks from all over. Mostly the UK. There are 2 Americans, an Aussie, a Spaniard and a couple from Norway.
We meet later to venture off to supper nearby. We walk down narrow, dirty alley ways dodging vehicles of all sorts. I am just thankful that I am not alone and most definitely with a group. The sort of alleys you see in movies...the scarey ones. We reach the place...The Crossroads Restaurant. Dark, busy and not so bad. I don't feel so brave and stay with noodles...that with one Corona and I am done.
The next morning comes early (0620) as we head up to the rooftop for a breakfast of soft porridge with curd (I grew to love curd on this trip...I think it saved me from Delhi belly many times), french toast and even fried cornflakes with peas...(I don't recommend them...)
Time to board Daphne our tour truck. She is a medium sized rig, orange, equipped with tables, refridgerator and stereo....not as elaborate as she sounds. The name grew to fit her quite well...she was a temperamental gal...much to our dismay. She had to rest up a few hours into the drive and was quite hot and bothered. Oh well...another opportunity for a water refill and squat toilet. I was in India...I wasn't bothered.
The roadside stops always interesting. It was nothing to attract a crowd of 20-30 when we were at the roadside...unfortunetly, it was usually when we were looking for a place to pee. I kept forgetting where I was, and that to them is as common as looking at your watch. We get quite spoiled as westerners...the things we take for granted. Like running water and toilet paper. In places...these ARE luxuries.
It's on to The Amber Fort and Jaipur...
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